Thursday 21 December 2023

E-Bike electric systems - my investigation

 So far in looking at ebikes I have come across four types of electric motor systems. I want to know the difference. 

The guy at Pedals cycle shop said that in-frame motors respond to pressure on the pedals to supply power, where as rear-hub systems  go on speed. Is this true?

I am not considering front hub systems like Swytch. I am not interested in them.

I like the concept of the Quella bikes where there is no electrical connection between the wheel and the battery. https://www.quellabicycle.com But they are all single speed bikes. 

Halfords Boardman bikes use the Fazua Evation system. 

--

What is Fazua Evation?

The Fazua Evation e-bike drive system features a hidden, integrated motor capable of producing250W of power assistance and 60Nm of torque. This is combined with a removable 250Wh battery, which makes for easy charging without needing a plug where you store your bike. With a range of up to 56 miles* on the “Breeze Mode” setting, long rides are efficiently dealt with.

Using a sophisticated combination of Torque, Speed and Cadence sensors, the Fazua system closely monitors your pedalling and feeds in power smoothly when you need it, stopping instantly when you stop pedalling[1]. You’re always in complete control. There are 3 levels of assistance to choose from using the intuitive handlebar remote control, which also shows battery charge levels.

Weighing in at just 4.6Kg for the whole system, the Fazua Evation system keeps the Boardman HYB-E and ADV-E e-bikes lightweight and practical to live with. The battery and motor can also be removed [2] and replaced with a lightweight cover (sold separately), meaning you can ride your e-bike just like a normal bike with barely any weight penalty and no extra drivetrain resistance if you decide you don’t need any assistance.

Fazua App

By using the FAZUA app which is compatible with all Boardman eBikes, you can get access to all of the below that will assist your journey and will help you learn more about your training and your bike.

--
Questions on that. [1]Motor stops when you stop pedalling?
[2] Battery and motor can be removed easily?
--

Here is a report that describes the types of motors, but doesn't answer all of my questions and indeed, raises some more:
https://bicycleuniverse.com/best-electric-bike-motors/

So two types of hub motors and no suggestion as to how the use of the motor is controlled. It also suggests that 28mph is the maximum where in the UK ebikes are limited to 15mph.  No date on the article so we don't know how old or relevant it is.   None of the articles mention that hub motors need a means of getting the electricity to the motor from the frame and how susceptible to problems this is. 

One article suggests that hub motors are usually heavier than mid-drives, but I ask if the frame is heavier for a mid-drive.

Lets have a look at a couple of hub motor bikes and see if they tell what sort of motor it is:
GT eGrade Bolt:  MAHLE ebikemotion X35 250W   
https://www.mahle.com/weshapefuturemobility/en/
This motor doesn't use rare earth magnets, but electromagnets. 






Monday 18 December 2023

Thoughts on Leaves, and God

 It seems that any time I hear of any conflict in the world, it is due to quarrels between different religions. I remember  some lectures that we went to by the Christadelphians, where it was pointed out that in the far distant past in the middle east, two brothers went their separate ways, and one became the Jewish group, and the other became the Muslim group.  There were lots of other tribes in that area too over the centuries, so I don't know how that fits in. 

But each of these religions is man-made, in somebody's idea of how god should be worshipped. God hasn't had any say in this. That's why I can't support any church, because it is just somebody's idea of how things are. 


I look at the leaves on the trees, and think that these are the foundations of life. They generate the Oxygen that we humans require to live, so they give us life. They fall off periodically and are regenerated  the next year, meanwhile providing the life around them with fertilizer to grow.   

I had a lot mor thoughts about this, but it has gone now. 

Tuesday 7 November 2023

Sourdough Bread recipe with my modifications and thoughts

The starting point:  https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/sourdough-bread

My adjustments in italics.


Method

Make the Starter

  • STEP 1

    First, make your starter. In a large bowl, mix together 100g of the flour with 125ml slightly warm water. Whisk together until smooth and lump-free.

  • STEP 2

    Transfer the starter to a large jar (a 1-litre Kilner jar is good) or a plastic container. Leave the jar or container lid ajar for 1 hr or so in a warm place (around 25C is ideal), then seal and set aside for 24 hrs.

  • STEP 3

    For the next 6 days, you will need to ‘feed’ the starter. Each day, tip away half of the original starter, add an extra 100g of flour and 125ml slightly warm water, and stir well. Try to do this at the same time every day.

  • STEP 4

    After 3-4 days you should start to see bubbles appearing on the surface, and it will smell yeasty and a little acidic. This is a good indicator that the starter is working.

  • STEP 5

    On day 7, the starter should be quite bubbly and smell much sweeter. It is now ready to be used in baking.

  • Making Bread

  • The Starter is now known as the Mother. Take half the mother and add 100g of flour and 100ml of water, mix well and allow to work overnight. This is now known as the Levain. 

  • STEP 6

    Tip 500g flour, 225ml warm water, 1 tsp salt, 3 1 tsp sugar and the starter into a bowl, or a mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add 225ml warm water, slowly. Stir with a wooden spoon, or on a slow setting in the machine, until combined – add extra flour if it’s too sticky or a little extra warm water if it’s too dry.

  • Forget the mixer, do it by hand. 17/11/23  Only used 1 tsp sugar. Apparently sugar gives you a harder crust. Today's loaf was as large as the last loaf, but with just 1 tsp. And I only used about 200ml of the water.

  • STEP 7

    Tip onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 mins until soft and elastic – you should be able to stretch it without it tearing. Ignore this: If you‘re using a mixer, turn up the speed a little and mix for 5 mins.

  • STEP 8

    Place the dough in a large, [well-oiled - No]  floured bowl and cover. Leave in a warm place to rise for 3 hrs. You may not see much movement, but don’t be disheartened, as sourdough takes much longer to rise than a conventional yeasted bread.

  • STEP 9

    Line a medium-sized bowl with a clean tea towel and flour it really well or, if you have a proving basket, you can use this (see tips below). Ignore this.

  • Tip the dough back onto your work surface and knead briefly to knock out any air bubbles. Shape the dough into a smooth ball and dust it with flour.

  • STEP 10

    Place the dough, seam-side up, in the well-oiled bowl or proving basket, cover loosely and leave at room temperature until roughly doubled in size. The time it takes for your bread to rise will vary depending on the strength of your starter and the temperature in the room, anywhere from 4-8 hrs. The best indicators are your eyes, so don’t worry too much about timings here. You can also prove your bread overnight in the fridge. Remove it in the morning and let it continue rising for another hour or 2 at room temperature. The slower the rise, the deeper the flavour you will achieve.

  • STEP 11

    Place a large baking tray in the oven, and heat to 230C/210C fan/gas 8. Fill a small roasting tin with a little water and place this in the bottom of the oven to create steam. Remove the baking tray from the oven, sprinkle with flour, then carefully tip the risen dough onto the tray.

  • STEP 12

    Slash the top a few times with a sharp knife, if you like, then bake for 35-40  about 25 mins until golden brown. It will sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. Leave to cool on a wire rack for 20 mins before serving.

Looking after Mother
Keep Mother in a slightly warm place. every other day pour off half and add about 100g of flour and 100ml of water, stir slightly and put away again. 
You can always use the 'discard' to make more bread!

Comments
I think that I have cracked it. In step 6, do not add all of the water at once. Mix up the flour/sugar/salt with the levain, and then add water until the mixture starts to stick together. While kneading it, add just enough water to make a ball that you can knead. Too much and it will be a runny mix later when you pour it into the baking pan and come out flat. 

22/11/23  A suggestion to keep it warm while rising was to put it in a slow cooker. I did this, occasionally turning it on to low for 5 minutes to warm it up, but I noticed that the temperature got too high. I think it over did it and when I poured it on to the baking tin it looked OK'ish but fell flat as it started cooking. 

Links:

Questions: 
Why do some recipes want you to add sugar/honey and others don't?   Sugar doesn't do anything for the yeast but helps to get a hard crust. 
Why do some recipes go straight from the mother and not use a levain?

28/11/23 Today I used the suggestion 11 from the last reference above and added the water to the flour to 'autolyse' before adding the starter and salt and sugar.  I also didn't knead it much but just folded it over a few times. When it went in the oven it spread out as it it was soggy, but it did rise a good bit.  I shall have to consider how to adjust this.

7/12/23 Have started a loaf  the same way that I did the last one. Totally different from the initial steps  from the BBC recipe. Started Thursday evening about 7PM.

Measured 500g flour into a large bowl (100g Wholewheat, 400g white) and added 1tsp salt. 
Poured half the Mother into another large bowl. Warmed 225ml of water. 
Mixed up the flour and salt with my hands and added it slowly to the bowl with the starter, mixing with my hand. Added a bit of water. 
Put the solid mass on the table and started kneading and folding it, adding more of the flour from the bowl to it, and occasionally dripping some water on to it. Kept doing this until all the loose flour was part of the mass. 
I added a little bit more water and it started to get soggy so I kneaded it a bit more then put it into a bowl, covered it and put it into the airing cupboard overnight. I had about 50ml of water left. 
In the morning I kneaded and folded it a bit more, only about a minute, and then put it in a buttered corningware bowl to rise during the day. I then cooked it in this corning ware bowl, and this is the result. 

Unfortunately it did stick a bit to the bottom of the bowl. But I am pleased overall. 

27 Dec 2023. A good loaf. 200g Wholewheat/300g White.
Last night about 6, I split the mother, and refreshed both parts with 100g flour, 100ml water, and put the one that I was going to use in the airing cupboard for about 3 hours. Then I added the ingredients and kneaded it , and as I worked it I kept adding dribbles of water, and finally when I put it to rise overnight it was slightly moist around the outside. Funny enough this way I had less stuck to my fingers than usual.  About 11 in the morning I folded it a few more times then put it in the oiled square corningware back in the airing cupboard. It rose well, but deflated when I scored it, and cooked it about 5 o'clock. 

8 January 2024 A good loaf. Photo compares it to a breadmaker wholemeal loaf, which is taller but not so large around. This has been a 36 hour process. I split the mother Saturday evening as described above. Sunday Morning I made the loaf with 400g of mixed White and Wholemeal bread flour, and allowed it to rise in the airing cupboard. Sunday evening I reworked it, put it in the corning ware dish, warmed up the oven for a couple of minutes, and then left the bread in the oven overnight. Cooked it (gas 6 - 25 minutes) Monday morning and this is the result on the left. 










Monday 16 October 2023

Fixing an Mbot

 A friend corrupted the firmware so now it doesn't do anything. 

https://www.makeblock.com/pages/mbot-robot-kit?utm_source=mblock&utm_medium=homepage

I found the Mblock IDE https://ide.mblock.cc which runs in my browser, and connected the Mbot via USB. 

Then I clicked on the MBOT and  up came a small window that said I needed to have Mlink 2 running, then gave me a link to get it, so I have downloaded it. 

It's installed but the IDE says I can't connect until it is turned on. 

from here, way down towards the bottom:

https://education.makeblock.com/help/obtain-and-install-mblock-5/

there is this command:

(2) Enter the following command to start the program:

sudo mblock-mlink start

Note: Do not close Terminal After opening the program. Otherwise, the device communication is disconnected.

Enter the following command to stop the program:

sudo mblock-mlink stop

OK, this connects. Now how to restore initial program.

https://www.vernier.com/til/4153

at the bottom of this page there is a link to a troubleshooting page.
I think the batteries may be low.  Batteries were very low. Try reflashing again.

New batteries and updated with Factory firmware and not on-line firmware, and it is sorted.

end of blog.  18/10/2023





Saturday 22 July 2023

22/7/2023 Repairing an LG Flatron L225WS Monitor

The problem with this monitor is that it is good for a period and then blanks out. Switching it off and on again cures the problem for another period. It has been a while since I replaced it, but the period I think is about 10 minutes.    Is is a VGA monitor.

from here you can WhatsApp chat with their experts.

https://www.lg.com/uk/support/product-support/cs-L225WS-SF.AEK/#troubleshoot-tab

and have a look at these:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/828260/Lg-Flatron-L222ws.html?page=8#manual  Looks good.



Tuesday 4 July 2023

Car 3 not working- what's wrong?

 I dug it out a few weeks ago with the idea of changing how the turning occurs because at the time  pressing the left/right button just made the wheels turn for 30 seconds. I changed the software so that on a right turn the wheels stayed turning until the forward button was pressed. 


In testing I noticed that the backwards function was not working any more. One of the problems was that the connections from the Raspberry Pi to the PCB for the motor drivers was somewhat dicky, so I have had fun reworking those. I have now cut off the connectors from the cables and run them through the holes on the PCB and soldered the wires directly to the end of the resistors. But it still didn't work properly. It wouldn't turn left or go backwards. 

I have brought in the uSD card and run it in the test jig.  Backwards does not work, and pressing the forward button to stop the right turn also stops forward motion. Left turn works. So I need to look at the software now. 

Monday 26 June 2023

Programming a 3D printer ANET board - Take 2

 I have come back to it after I found a guy who has documented it thoroughly. 

https://caggius.wordpress.com/anet-v1-5-1-7-board-on-marlin-2-0-5-3/

He works in Windows 10, so my first step was to install my W10 disc and let it upgrade. 

Step 1 was to back up the existing config using Pronterface, so I installed that, and this was a positive step because after I set the USB speed to 200,000 it connected and I was able to get the configuration, which I saved in a text file.   /Documents/3d-stuff/printer-config.

Step 2. I followed the instructions for getting the marlin code given in this link

Loaded VisualStudio, and added the alien PlatformIO IDE  I had some problem getting the correct VisualStudio until I let the computer choose it somehow. 

In step 5 here I have downloaded the Marlin code to  --? I think it must have disappeared. I can't find it today.   I want it in d:/Marlin2.1.2.1         
That is possibly why I had problems yesterday? 

Step 6 load the marlin project in VSCode. I couldn't get it to Import the project yesterday. I got it somehow else. But had an error when I tried to compile it [Step 7]. The first error is that it did not like the board that I selected - the Atmega 1284p which is the one on the ANET board. 

In the first blog step 6 he instructs to change some marlin files which I didn't do while I was following instructions in the second blog. Let us go back and do that. 
- Can't do it. These files are not in the config folder. 

Have done some tidying and unsynced OneDrive from this computer and moved everything to D: drive.  Now PlatformIO has the filenames but can't find them. 

Also when I try to open a README it opens in PlaformIO and I cannot see how to read it.  Will try tomorrow. 

I think that I will  re-download Marlin.

Followed the instructions about putting in the config files in the marlin directory, and editing the platformIO file, and it build successfully. 
The next step is to download it to the ANET card, but I am pretty sute that this does not have a bootloader so go to step 7c and follow the videos mentioned there. Bet I have been here before. 


July 14/23   Back in linux

Have connected  Arduino UNO to ANET 1.5 as so
MISO to MISO
MOSI to MOSI
GND to GND
SCLK to SCLK

started Arduino IDE 1.8.19
Example sketch Arduino ISP
Arduino UNO board, 
Port: /dev/ttyUSB0

This post https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQIizXtf9oo&t=0s used
USBtinyISP

Damn, now back at the point where I have to load the additional boards to select the ANET one , by pasting a certain line into the preferences.   NO. Moved the hardware directory containing the ANET stuff into the /snap/Arduino/current/ directory.

Have to change the Programmer to 'Arduino as ISP' 
Now going to try and flash the ANET Optiboot 
using the 'burn bootloader' command. 

BAck to the error message that I have seen before:
avrdude: Yikes!  Invalid device signature.
         Double check connections and try again, 

Leaving it for tonight.

19/7/23  
Order of operations:
 - Plug in Arduino
- start Arduino IDE
- check Board and port details. It hasn't picked up port USB0 yet.
- switch on ANET, shut down Arduino IDE
- start up IDE
-unplug and replug Arduino from USB
- Now IDE selects USB0 port

Error: 
Arduino: 1.8.19 (Linux), Board: "Anet V1.0 (Optiboot)"

Sketch uses 4574 bytes (3%) of program storage space. Maximum is 130048 bytes.
Global variables use 482 bytes of dynamic memory.
avrdude: Expected signature for ATmega1284P is 1E 97 05
         Double check chip, or use -F to override this check.
Wrong microcontroller found. 

Something is strange here because the ANET Board  has an ATmega 1284P chip. 

I am giving up. I have been here before. 

Suggestion from Hugh: 
It might be a good idea to see what the device actually is, and the best way to do this is to use Atmel/Microchip Studio from within windows.

Unfortunately it’s an enormous download, but it does work well, and from the ‘device programming’ dialog, it will prompt you if you select and incorrect device from the drop-down box.

Will try it. 

--------------
board sent to Hugh  26/7/23

--------------
30/7/23

In Here I find a reference to how to define an early ANET board.

https://marlinfw.org/docs/development/boards.html#sanguinololu-and-derivatives-atmega644p,-atmega1284p

BOARD_ANET_10

I'll have to look into this file and see if it gives me any thoughts.

-------------

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ib188-ACa08   - some interesting thoughts on how to program an 8bit card using VSCode. 

From the video tells me how to find the extra files needed to set it up for Marlin 2. 















Friday 31 March 2023

Programming a 3D printer ANET board

 Following on from my unsuccessful attempts to change the firmware in my ANET3D v1.5 board  using an Arduino UNO as the link to the Arduino IDE,   I am now wondering if I can program it from the MicroSD card as I saw for another type of 3D printer this morning. 

This blog will keep track of my researches and attempts on this.  I think it was an ANET A8 board that could be programmed in this way. 


Sunday 26 March 2023

Raspberry Pi as 3D printer control unit

26 March 2023 

1. I have given up for now trying to upgrade my 3D printer control board. 

Options are:

2. Buy a new printer [ >£200]

3. Buy a new control board [ ~£40]

4.  DIY with a Raspberry Pi - which will cost an unknown amount. 

It has been explored a bit here:

https://forums.raspberrypi.com/viewtopic.php?t=300484

and here:

https://hackaday.io/project/179342-sigmoid-s7p-3d-printer-control-board


How to do it and what do I need.

I  think a fairly up to date R-Pi, possibly a 3B+ 

5 Stepper motors: 1 - X-axis, 1 - Y-axis, 2 - Z-Axis, and a filament feeder

- driver hardware for these

Heating power to the filament coil and feedback thermistor.

Heating power to the Bed and feedback thermistor.

Driver hardware and A/D inputs for these.

Display and input buttons, knobs or whatever. How much of this could be done from a tablet? Or Octoprint? 

Knowledge of and ability to do whatever G-codes desire.

Some of this latter stuff could be obtained from the Marlin software.

Thought - Could the Marlin software be hacked for this? 



Friday 24 February 2023

Family History by cars

 Getting our family history straight through the cars that we had, the trips we took, and the jobs we worked at.





1952 August we came to Canada and bought a 1947 Nash sedan.

After we moved to the lake, Dad bought the pregnant jellybean – a purple Nash station wagon.



The Nash was scrapped and pulled up to the dump across the road. The back axle 

I lowered down the back of the house while the parents were away and took all the skin off my palms.



That didn’t last too long and was replaced by a brand new pale blue mini. This was the first car that 

I drove.  In July 1963 we went down to Oregon in it. All six of us.



Ten he bought a green Austin A40 Somerset (for Mum) that had liquid filled front shock absorbers that

leaked. It also had a copper wing. When I went to Vernon Grade 13 college at the army camp

 (Sept '64-June '65) I drove both the mini and the Austin. I wonder if it was bought about then- tha

would be late 1964? It ended it’s life on the Lumby road when I was on the way to work at the 

lumber yard – my first job on return from University I think. Summer 1966. 

I think I must have worked at the lumber yard in Lumby and then in Cherryville in the summer 

before I went to university, and then at Donald all summer 1967 – I remember driving the Mini there.




Is it at this time that Dad bought a blue Pontiac from a woman who had kept it in her garage for 

years? I believe that it developed problems once on the Hope-Princeton highway, but don’t know 

it’s end.



Vivian rolled the mini on the way down from Silver Star, but with three/four? Lads in it the

y just righted it and carried on. He also knocked out the sump on a rock out towards Cosins Bay 

and Dad got the guys at Galbraith’s to weld a patch on the sump where it was smashed. 

It was an experiment in Aluminum welding for them.



I bent the mini badly on the Port Mann Bridge driving into Vancouver in September 1968. 

I was carrying Beverly Ann Howe who had worked with me at the Army Camp Junior 

ranks shop. Richard says that he was with me. I drove the mini back to Vernon and Dad 

sold it. I am quite sure that Dad followed me home in the blue Pontiac. 

This is correct. I lived at Union Street in Burnaby and was seeing Bev until I met Marian that year.



The next summer 1969 I worked first at the Sergeants Mess and then at the Jr. Ranks bar at the Army

camp. I can’t remember which car I drove then. It was always evening work.



Then he bought a brown Austin 1100. This lasted until Richard and the road to Whistler parted company

in 1974.



Dad had a Blue Pickup that he parked on the road for awhile. The key was broken off in the ignition and

 the doors didn’t lock but that didn’t stop some yobbo from breaking the window and trying to get into it 

just as the police came along!



1969-1976 my main transport was bicycle.



When I graduated from university 1976 Mom lent me the money to buy a brand new Mini, which I sold 

when I left Canada in 1978. I won’t comment about Richard bending it.





Monday 30 January 2023

Christmas Weather Station - 2

 30 January 2023  I have decided to give up on  getting OpenWeatherMap connected and displaying. 

I am going to get rid of that stuff, and maybe the Thingspeak stuff, and have the devices show the measurements on the displays directly. 

I will also try and set up the ESP8266 as an Access point so that I can browse to it and see my readings. 

On second thought I do not need to do that. All I have to do is set up a web page on it to show the data, so that it can be seen on my own network. 

Here is the link for doing the Access Point thing: 

https://randomnerdtutorials.com/esp8266-nodemcu-access-point-ap-web-server/

Hopefully it will also help to get the web server set up.  It leads to this

https://randomnerdtutorials.com/esp8266-dht11dht22-temperature-and-humidity-web-server-with-arduino-ide/

OK, I have taken out all the stuff relating to Thingspeak and OpenWeatherstation, and it compiles, But when it runs it connects to wifi, then displays nothing and reboots. 

Problem 1: get it to display current date and time. 

On-line monitor shows a bunch of error statements that occur between line 59 and 166. 

I have discovered that the error occurs in this section of code:

/code

int remainingTimeBudget = ui.update();

if (remainingTimeBudget > 0) {
   Serial.println("remaining time budget wait");
   // You can do some work here
   // Don't do stuff if you are below your
   // time budget.
   delay(remainingTimeBudget);
}

/endcode

I don't understand this ui.update, so have found I hope an explanation here to be read later:

https://forum.arduino.cc/t/using-millis-for-timing-a-beginners-guide/483573 - not much help. 

7/2/2023   OK, I have decided that the code for this is too complicated and not that well explained, so am looking elsewhere.

I have found: 

https://www.hackster.io/technuttiez/pocket-weather-station-using-arduino-2e5173

which leads to:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhOhBuKC80M&t=460s   which points me to the next instructable for the code for this.

https://www.instructables.com/Pocket-Weather-Station-Your-Self-Care-Weather-Assi/

I had to install one more library - the Adafruit DHT one. and now it compiles. I'll check the pins for the DHT sensor before I try and load it. 

10/2/23 discovered an interesting site or two. 

https://github.com/lexus2k/ssd1306/wiki/Hardware-setup#esp8266-nodemcu 

This one shows the usual pinouts for the NodeMCU and the screen.

It came from here:

https://github.com/lexus2k/ssd1306

12/2/23 I have reverted to the modification of the weatherstation demo because it at least displays data on the screen. It also does set up the wifi and read the sensors.  

Have discovered how to convert an integer to a string so that I can print it to the display

String myString = String(n); 
That works. 
Now displaying Temperature and humidity at the following positions on the screen:
display.drawString(40, 10, "Temperature");  Top third
display.drawString(90, 10, myString);
display.drawString(40, 30, "Humidity");     just under half way down
display.drawString(90, 30, myString2);
I repeated this for the Light and Atmospheric pressure and it worked well. 
the figures in the lines above are (column, row, whatever)
    display.clear();
    display.drawString(40, 5, "Temp");     /line 5
    String myString = String(temp);
    display.drawString(40, 15, myString);  / line 15
    display.drawString(80, 5, "Hum'y");
    String myString2 = String(humi);
    display.drawString(80, 15, myString2);
    display.drawString(40, 30, "Light");    /line 30
    String myString3 = String(tempLight);
    display.drawString(40, 40, myString3);  /line 40
    display.drawString(80, 30, "Atm.Pr");
    String myString4 = String(tempAtom);
    display.drawString(80, 40, myString4);
    display.display();
This weatherstation program does not use the simple setup explained in this
https://randomnerdtutorials.com/guide-for-oled-display-with-arduino/
Tried to set it up using this program, but it uses different libraries and I can't set it up to use the I2C ports that my system currently uses. Guess I'll have to stay with what I have and just tidy it up.

Used the sample program for ESP8266 demo of I2C screen, and it is blue in the top 2/3 and yellow in the bottom 1/3.   When I look at the Amazon reference for the kit in the previous blog, it looks like the display if Blue/Yellow. So I have to live with it. 

I shall knock 2 off each of the row values and see if I get it all on the blue section.
That did it, so I know to write anything else that I want in the yellow section starting at row 40, or maybe 45 allowing for the height of the characters. [ used 46].

change these two lines and similar to:
 String myString4 = String(tempAtom);
 display.drawString(80, 40, myString4);
becomes
 display.drawString(80, 40, String(tempAtom));
Tidier. 
I need something that helps me display the time. 

https://www.circuitbasics.com/using-an-arduino-ethernet-shield-for-timekeeping/
https://randomnerdtutorials.com/esp32-ntp-client-date-time-arduino-ide/
-- looks more useful.
https://RandomNerdTutorials.com/esp8266-nodemcu-date-time-ntp-client-server-arduino/

24/2/2023 This one gave me the essentials, and I put it into my code and deleted a lot of
old time stuff that was interfering with it's compilation, and I got it working.
Changed display from centred to left oriented and some positioning values, and I am happy.



12/5/2023    Link to  a weatherstation using a Raspberry Pi

  https://www.donskytech.com/raspberry-pi-dht22-weather-station-project/