Feb 2024- Solar panels have paid for themselves - sort of.

 I have just done my reckoning for the year and  the solar panels after 9 years have paid back the cost  of purchase.  They cost £6000 and at the end of this year have paid back £6150.

Lots of caveats in here though. I figure that if the £6000 had earned 2% it would now be worth over £7000 but of course interest rates have been down and are now up again. I have not adjusted it annually.

I costed in the benefit due to reduced electricity/gas bills compared to the cost of these in 2014. Except for the last two years my bills have been £2-300 lower than 2014. Caveat: consumption may be different. 

Caveat: the last two years the cost of electricity and gas has been much higher and therefore my costs have been greater than 2014, so I have not offset them in my calculations.  It wouldn't have been easy as the rates have fluctuated in the last couple of years.

RECALCULATIONS December 2024:

Putting together the results of emails with a friend with solar panels. 

When I got my solar panels fitted in December 2014, in order to calculate the breakeven point, I took the cost of elec/gas for the previous year [2013] and used that as a base point to calculate the savings. Of course this didn't include in the calculations the varying price/unit of these. What has happened over the last couple of years is that the cost of gas/elec over the year has been higher than the 2014  value so my calculations of savings are negative.

I have most of the bills over these years so I could recalculate everything if I had to. It's difficult I know because my consumption has varied over the years, and now that I have all new appliances in my kitchen and no more gas oven/hob, the usage is going to change.

At the moment  my calculations for this year only include the FIT payments because a negative figure isn't relevant any more. 

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Some parts of mine are more complicated as I did an annual calculation on the reduction in the bills, based on annual usage taken from bills, and also had an increment on the initial cost of 2% which would be the interest the money would have earned in the bank.  In many cases the annual interest on the capital would have varied, but I didn't worry about that, and also the annual cost calculation is only an approximation as the rates would have changed mid-year.   It could have become very complicated to try and get it totally accurate.

Good Energy handle my FIT payments, and I did query the fact that my calculation of FIT payment was different from what they gave me, but didn't get anywhere.   I am still about a year from breakeven I think [Dec 2024].

see sheet 'totals' on attached link

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1_KJGPu5fO4yIRw5Hr7BDt3Ia9UJRNkx0twsA16mEl_Q/edit?usp=sharing

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I have reworked it all using a different calculation, not based upon cost differences, but on usage.

Every year I compared the usage to the reference usage in 2013, before panels, and using the rate for a year, calculated the savings due to using less electricity. I created a new sheet[NEWTOTALS], and in column I for each year is the rate and then the calculation for that year. It's not entirely correct because for a couple of early years  I couldn't find bill copies to get the rate, and also in each year the rate was usually renegotiated about June/July. I used the rate in September for the calculations. Interestingly the saving in the early years was less than with the previous method, and in later years was greater (esp. when values went negative!).

An added factor from 2020 on was that the rate did not include VAT and this was added later to the bill, so a multiplication factor of 1.05 is added.

This gives me a much closer to breakeven than the previous method of calculation.

Breakeven = 7314 (Interest on Purchase price)   By the previous method of calculation= 6482,

The new Calculation has a saving so far of = £7174 to  November 28 2024. This assuming a FIT payment the same as last year for the last quarter.

So it all depends on how you do it! And there is margin for error.

E-Bike electric systems - my investigation

 So far in looking at ebikes I have come across four types of electric motor systems. I want to know the difference. 

The guy at Pedals cycle shop said that in-frame motors respond to pressure on the pedals to supply power, where as rear-hub systems  go on speed. Is this true?

I am not considering front hub systems like Swytch. I am not interested in them.

I like the concept of the Quella bikes where there is no electrical connection between the wheel and the battery. https://www.quellabicycle.com But they are all single speed bikes. 

Halfords Boardman bikes use the Fazua Evation system. 

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What is Fazua Evation?

The Fazua Evation e-bike drive system features a hidden, integrated motor capable of producing250W of power assistance and 60Nm of torque. This is combined with a removable 250Wh battery, which makes for easy charging without needing a plug where you store your bike. With a range of up to 56 miles* on the “Breeze Mode” setting, long rides are efficiently dealt with.

Using a sophisticated combination of Torque, Speed and Cadence sensors, the Fazua system closely monitors your pedalling and feeds in power smoothly when you need it, stopping instantly when you stop pedalling[1]. You’re always in complete control. There are 3 levels of assistance to choose from using the intuitive handlebar remote control, which also shows battery charge levels.

Weighing in at just 4.6Kg for the whole system, the Fazua Evation system keeps the Boardman HYB-E and ADV-E e-bikes lightweight and practical to live with. The battery and motor can also be removed [2] and replaced with a lightweight cover (sold separately), meaning you can ride your e-bike just like a normal bike with barely any weight penalty and no extra drivetrain resistance if you decide you don’t need any assistance.

Fazua App

By using the FAZUA app which is compatible with all Boardman eBikes, you can get access to all of the below that will assist your journey and will help you learn more about your training and your bike.

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Questions on that. [1]Motor stops when you stop pedalling?

[2] Battery and motor can be removed easily?

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Here is a report that describes the types of motors, but doesn't answer all of my questions and indeed, raises some more:

https://bicycleuniverse.com/best-electric-bike-motors/

So two types of hub motors and no suggestion as to how the use of the motor is controlled. It also suggests that 28mph is the maximum where in the UK ebikes are limited to 15mph.  No date on the article so we don't know how old or relevant it is.   None of the articles mention that hub motors need a means of getting the electricity to the motor from the frame and how susceptible to problems this is. 

One article suggests that hub motors are usually heavier than mid-drives, but I ask if the frame is heavier for a mid-drive.

Lets have a look at a couple of hub motor bikes and see if they tell what sort of motor it is:

GT eGrade Bolt:  MAHLE ebikemotion X35 250W   

https://www.mahle.com/weshapefuturemobility/en/

This motor doesn't use rare earth magnets, but electromagnets. 

Thoughts on Leaves, and God

 It seems that any time I hear of any conflict in the world, it is due to quarrels between different religions. I remember  some lectures that we went to by the Christadelphians, where it was pointed out that in the far distant past in the middle east, two brothers went their separate ways, and one became the Jewish group, and the other became the Muslim group.  There were lots of other tribes in that area too over the centuries, so I don't know how that fits in. 

But each of these religions is man-made, in somebody's idea of how god should be worshipped. God hasn't had any say in this. That's why I can't support any church, because it is just somebody's idea of how things are. 

I look at the leaves on the trees, and think that these are the foundations of life. They generate the Oxygen that we humans require to live, so they give us life. They fall off periodically and are regenerated  the next year, meanwhile providing the life around them with fertilizer to grow.   

I had a lot mor thoughts about this, but it has gone now. 

Sourdough Bread recipe with my modifications and thoughts

The starting point:  https://www.bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/sourdough-bread

My adjustments in italics.

Method

Make the Starter

• STEP 1

  First, make your starter. In a large bowl, mix together 100g of the flour with 125ml slightly warm water. Whisk together until smooth and lump-free.

• STEP 2

  Transfer the starter to a large jar (a 1-litre Kilner jar is good) or a plastic container. Leave the jar or container lid ajar for 1 hr or so in a warm place (around 25C is ideal), then seal and set aside for 24 hrs.
• STEP 3

  For the next 6 days, you will need to ‘feed’ the starter. Each day, tip away half of the original starter, add an extra 100g of flour and 125ml slightly warm water, and stir well. Try to do this at the same time every day.
• STEP 4

  After 3-4 days you should start to see bubbles appearing on the surface, and it will smell yeasty and a little acidic. This is a good indicator that the starter is working.
• STEP 5

  On day 7, the starter should be quite bubbly and smell much sweeter. It is now ready to be used in baking.

• Making Bread

• The Starter is now known as the Mother. Take half the mother and add 100g of flour and 100ml of water, mix well and allow to work overnight. This is now known as the Levain. 

• STEP 6

  Tip 500g flour, 225ml warm water, 1 tsp salt, 3 1 tsp sugar and the starter into a bowl, or a mixer fitted with a dough hook. Add 225ml warm water, slowly. Stir with a wooden spoon, or on a slow setting in the machine, until combined – add extra flour if it’s too sticky or a little extra warm water if it’s too dry.

• Forget the mixer, do it by hand. 17/11/23  Only used 1 tsp sugar. Apparently sugar gives you a harder crust. Today's loaf was as large as the last loaf, but with just 1 tsp. And I only used about 200ml of the water.

• STEP 7

  Tip onto a lightly floured surface and knead for 10 mins until soft and elastic – you should be able to stretch it without it tearing. Ignore this: If you‘re using a mixer, turn up the speed a little and mix for 5 mins.
• STEP 8

  Place the dough in a large, [well-oiled - No]  floured bowl and cover. Leave in a warm place to rise for 3 hrs. You may not see much movement, but don’t be disheartened, as sourdough takes much longer to rise than a conventional yeasted bread.
• STEP 9

  Line a medium-sized bowl with a clean tea towel and flour it really well or, if you have a proving basket, you can use this (see tips below). Ignore this.

• Tip the dough back onto your work surface and knead briefly to knock out any air bubbles. Shape the dough into a smooth ball and dust it with flour.

• STEP 10

  Place the dough, seam-side up, in the well-oiled bowl or proving basket, cover loosely and leave at room temperature until roughly doubled in size. The time it takes for your bread to rise will vary depending on the strength of your starter and the temperature in the room, anywhere from 4-8 hrs. The best indicators are your eyes, so don’t worry too much about timings here. You can also prove your bread overnight in the fridge. Remove it in the morning and let it continue rising for another hour or 2 at room temperature. The slower the rise, the deeper the flavour you will achieve.
• STEP 11

  Place a large baking tray in the oven, and heat to 230C/210C fan/gas 8. Fill a small roasting tin with a little water and place this in the bottom of the oven to create steam. Remove the baking tray from the oven, sprinkle with flour, then carefully tip the risen dough onto the tray.
• STEP 12

  Slash the top a few times with a sharp knife, if you like, then bake for 35-40  about 25 mins until golden brown. It will sound hollow when tapped on the bottom. Leave to cool on a wire rack for 20 mins before serving.

Looking after Mother

Keep Mother in a slightly warm place. every other day pour off half and add about 100g of flour and 100ml of water, stir slightly and put away again. 

You can always use the 'discard' to make more bread!

Comments

I think that I have cracked it. In step 6, do not add all of the water at once. Mix up the flour/sugar/salt with the levain, and then add water until the mixture starts to stick together. While kneading it, add just enough water to make a ball that you can knead. Too much and it will be a runny mix later when you pour it into the baking pan and come out flat. 

22/11/23  A suggestion to keep it warm while rising was to put it in a slow cooker. I did this, occasionally turning it on to low for 5 minutes to warm it up, but I noticed that the temperature got too high. I think it over did it and when I poured it on to the baking tin it looked OK'ish but fell flat as it started cooking. 

Links:

https://thedoughacademy.com/7-reasons-your-sourdough-bread-is-collapsing-how-to-fix/

https://www.busbysbakery.com/sourdough-bread-not-rising/

https://www.mydailysourdoughbread.com/sourdough-not-rising/

https://bakesmartly.com/common-reasons-why-your-bread-isnt-rising/

Questions: 

Why do some recipes want you to add sugar/honey and others don't?   Sugar doesn't do anything for the yeast but helps to get a hard crust. 

Why do some recipes go straight from the mother and not use a levain?

28/11/23 Today I used the suggestion 11 from the last reference above and added the water to the flour to 'autolyse' before adding the starter and salt and sugar.  I also didn't knead it much but just folded it over a few times. When it went in the oven it spread out as it it was soggy, but it did rise a good bit.  I shall have to consider how to adjust this.

7/12/23 Have started a loaf  the same way that I did the last one. Totally different from the initial steps  from the BBC recipe. Started Thursday evening about 7PM.

Measured 500g flour into a large bowl (100g Wholewheat, 400g white) and added 1tsp salt. 

Poured half the Mother into another large bowl. Warmed 225ml of water. 

Mixed up the flour and salt with my hands and added it slowly to the bowl with the starter, mixing with my hand. Added a bit of water. 

Put the solid mass on the table and started kneading and folding it, adding more of the flour from the bowl to it, and occasionally dripping some water on to it. Kept doing this until all the loose flour was part of the mass. 

I added a little bit more water and it started to get soggy so I kneaded it a bit more then put it into a bowl, covered it and put it into the airing cupboard overnight. I had about 50ml of water left. 

In the morning I kneaded and folded it a bit more, only about a minute, and then put it in a buttered corningware bowl to rise during the day. I then cooked it in this corning ware bowl, and this is the result. 

Unfortunately it did stick a bit to the bottom of the bowl. But I am pleased overall. 

27 Dec 2023. A good loaf. 200g Wholewheat/300g White.

Last night about 6, I split the mother, and refreshed both parts with 100g flour, 100ml water, and put the one that I was going to use in the airing cupboard for about 3 hours. Then I added the ingredients and kneaded it , and as I worked it I kept adding dribbles of water, and finally when I put it to rise overnight it was slightly moist around the outside. Funny enough this way I had less stuck to my fingers than usual.  About 11 in the morning I folded it a few more times then put it in the oiled square corningware back in the airing cupboard. It rose well, but deflated when I scored it, and cooked it about 5 o'clock. 

8 January 2024 A good loaf. Photo compares it to a breadmaker wholemeal loaf, which is taller but not so large around. This has been a 36 hour process. I split the mother Saturday evening as described above. Sunday Morning I made the loaf with 400g of mixed White and Wholemeal bread flour, and allowed it to rise in the airing cupboard. Sunday evening I reworked it, put it in the corning ware dish, warmed up the oven for a couple of minutes, and then left the bread in the oven overnight. Cooked it (gas 6 - 25 minutes) Monday morning and this is the result on the left. 

Fixing an Mbot

 A friend corrupted the firmware so now it doesn't do anything. 

https://www.makeblock.com/pages/mbot-robot-kit?utm_source=mblock&utm_medium=homepage

I found the Mblock IDE https://ide.mblock.cc which runs in my browser, and connected the Mbot via USB. 

Then I clicked on the MBOT and  up came a small window that said I needed to have Mlink 2 running, then gave me a link to get it, so I have downloaded it. 

It's installed but the IDE says I can't connect until it is turned on. 

from here, way down towards the bottom:

https://education.makeblock.com/help/obtain-and-install-mblock-5/

there is this command:

(2) Enter the following command to start the program:

sudo mblock-mlink start

Note: Do not close Terminal After opening the program. Otherwise, the device communication is disconnected.

Enter the following command to stop the program:

sudo mblock-mlink stop

OK, this connects. Now how to restore initial program.

https://www.vernier.com/til/4153

at the bottom of this page there is a link to a troubleshooting page.
I think the batteries may be low.  Batteries were very low. Try reflashing again.

New batteries and updated with Factory firmware and not on-line firmware, and it is sorted.

end of blog.  18/10/2023

22/7/2023 Repairing an LG Flatron L225WS Monitor

The problem with this monitor is that it is good for a period and then blanks out. Switching it off and on again cures the problem for another period. It has been a while since I replaced it, but the period I think is about 10 minutes.    Is is a VGA monitor.

from here you can WhatsApp chat with their experts.

https://www.lg.com/uk/support/product-support/cs-L225WS-SF.AEK/#troubleshoot-tab

and have a look at these:

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/828260/Lg-Flatron-L222ws.html?page=8#manual  Looks good.

Raspberry Pi as 3D printer control unit

26 March 2023 

1. I have given up for now trying to upgrade my 3D printer control board. 

Options are:

2. Buy a new printer [ >£200]

3. Buy a new control board [ ~£40]

4.  DIY with a Raspberry Pi - which will cost an unknown amount. 

It has been explored a bit here:

https://forums.raspberrypi.com/viewtopic.php?t=300484

and here:

https://hackaday.io/project/179342-sigmoid-s7p-3d-printer-control-board

How to do it and what do I need.

I  think a fairly up to date R-Pi, possibly a 3B+ 

5 Stepper motors: 1 - X-axis, 1 - Y-axis, 2 - Z-Axis, and a filament feeder

- driver hardware for these

Heating power to the filament coil and feedback thermistor.

Heating power to the Bed and feedback thermistor.

Driver hardware and A/D inputs for these.

Display and input buttons, knobs or whatever. How much of this could be done from a tablet? Or Octoprint? 

Knowledge of and ability to do whatever G-codes desire.

Some of this latter stuff could be obtained from the Marlin software.

Thought - Could the Marlin software be hacked for this?