31 May 2020: We have a chromecast on the upstairs TV, but nothing on the downstairs TV so I wondered if I could use and Idle R-Pi for one. My R-Pi is a Model B rev 2, so it is quite old, and some of the Wifi dongles do not support use as a AP.
Here's links:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OhNc2cSULWQ
directs to https://www.novaspirit.com/2017/09/22/how-to-use-raspberry-pi-as-chromecast/
needs raspicast on Android Tablet
https://thepi.io/how-to-use-your-raspberry-pi-as-a-chromecast-alternative/
The same. used this one to make it.
https://www.instructables.com/id/Raspberry-Pi-As-Chromecast-Alternative-Raspicast/
The same.
https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/raspberry-pi-chromecast/
The saem, includes compilation and comment about using Kodi too.
None of these mention wireless configuration.
Loaded latest Raspberry OS on 8 GB SD card.
Installed usual network config stuff.
Wireless IP of 29
Have put question on the Raspberry Pi Forum.
https://www.raspberrypi.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=197143
3 june 2020 I turns out that omxplayer that was part of previous Raspbian distros was not part of Buster, so i have installed it.
Hah – Got it working. Uninstalled Raspicast from my tablet, rebooted, Installed again and realised that the tab for files showed files on the R-Pi, then started youtube and shared to Raspicast second alternative after ‘queue’, to actually play. And it worked.
Not as good as Chromecast, but it played Youtube videos.
Sunday, 31 May 2020
Wednesday, 13 May 2020
2020-May- Further experiments with Raspberry PI RC car - Can I make it respond faster
The starting point for this is using the R-Pi as an ad-hoc connection so that I don't need an access point, as described here:
https://madsmaddad.blogspot.com/2020/02/raspberry-pi-ad-hoc-wireless.html
In a recent issue of Linux Format magazine I found an article about alternate ways of doing all this so I have to try them.
3 things that you can do:
1. Overclock the pi, done with SD card 4 in a R-Pi B and seems to work
2. Modify the amount of RAM that is used, but the Pi-B only has 256 MB so difficult to do and wonder if there is any measurable advantage.
3. Use different Web interfacing. Article not much use, look further.
As SD disk 7 is the one active in Car3, I'll try overclocking it.
Just set overclocking to 950Mhz (high) from basic 700MHz.
June 8 2020
Just did a search on Speed optimization in Flask. Got some good results
https://stackoverflow.com/questions/39788630/speed-optimisation-in-flask
https://blog.socratic.org/the-one-weird-trick-that-cut-our-flask-page-load-time-by-70-87145335f679
https://damyanon.net/post/flask-series-optimizations/ Don't know how useful this one will be.
https://anthonyblackshaw.me/2018-02-17/speeding-up-url-for-for-flask
I have to think about how I will test these. One thought is to build a new SD card for the car 3 and use it as a test bed, or else to use car 2 which I have here and it has the servo steering modification. Thisn one uses SD card 4. I think car 3 because the reactions will be more obvious.
First step will be to build a new SD card of the software, not forgetting the overclocking modification above.
I have used SD card 10 to duplicate 7. As an aside, I now have a backup of card 7 on my computer.
https://beebom.com/how-clone-raspberry-pi-sd-card-windows-linux-macos/ worked. - No it didn't. the file created was too large to blow onto the repalcement SD card.
I liked this tutorial.
https://towardsdatascience.com/python-webserver-with-flask-and-raspberry-pi-398423cc6f5d
14/6/20 Rebuilding System on another SD card. Connecting from Chrome on PC Via access point wireless, the response is very fast. So perhaps this is where I have to look for speeding up the system. When I have added the AP software to the R-Pi I'll connect the PC to it.
18/6/20 I think that word should be Ethernet, not wireless, But I will build a basic system (No AP) and try that via Router wireless.
Wireless to Tablet is the slow item, so is it the browser/software in the tablet. How to test that.
20/6/20 The RC-Car on uSD card 4 responds pretty quickly to the tablet.
Must check again card 7 and 10 for response times.
Ethernet to PC - very fast
Ethernet to tablet, nearly as fast - So that sort of says the Application on the Pi and the Wifi and Browser on the tablet are not holding it back.
Had a thought that it could be the AP software so searched for Hostapd causing slow action, and found hints that I should configure hostapd for wmm=1.
Now to test.
Humph. Wifi AP doesn't work at all. Not on house network or it's own.
from Dmesg:
18.436844] usb 1-1.2: Direct firmware load for zd1211/zd1211b_ub failed with error -2
[ 18.436875] usb 1-1.2: Could not load firmware file zd1211/zd1211b_ub. Error number -2
[ 18.436888] zd1211rw 1-1.2:1.0: couldn't load firmware. Error number -2
Difficult to resolve. Had to remove Hostapd, and update and then Upgrade SD card #7. One of the things that seems to have happened is that the zd1211 drivers seemed to have disappeared so I had to reload them. That is probably the error above. Have got it working again with external AP, now need to reinstall hostapd and start again.
https://madsmaddad.blogspot.com/2020/02/raspberry-pi-ad-hoc-wireless.html
In a recent issue of Linux Format magazine I found an article about alternate ways of doing all this so I have to try them.
3 things that you can do:
1. Overclock the pi, done with SD card 4 in a R-Pi B and seems to work
2. Modify the amount of RAM that is used, but the Pi-B only has 256 MB so difficult to do and wonder if there is any measurable advantage.
3. Use different Web interfacing. Article not much use, look further.
As SD disk 7 is the one active in Car3, I'll try overclocking it.
Just set overclocking to 950Mhz (high) from basic 700MHz.
June 8 2020
Just did a search on Speed optimization in Flask. Got some good results
https://stackoverflow.com/questions/39788630/speed-optimisation-in-flask
https://blog.socratic.org/the-one-weird-trick-that-cut-our-flask-page-load-time-by-70-87145335f679
https://damyanon.net/post/flask-series-optimizations/ Don't know how useful this one will be.
https://anthonyblackshaw.me/2018-02-17/speeding-up-url-for-for-flask
I have to think about how I will test these. One thought is to build a new SD card for the car 3 and use it as a test bed, or else to use car 2 which I have here and it has the servo steering modification. Thisn one uses SD card 4. I think car 3 because the reactions will be more obvious.
First step will be to build a new SD card of the software, not forgetting the overclocking modification above.
I have used SD card 10 to duplicate 7. As an aside, I now have a backup of card 7 on my computer.
https://beebom.com/how-clone-raspberry-pi-sd-card-windows-linux-macos/ worked. - No it didn't. the file created was too large to blow onto the repalcement SD card.
I liked this tutorial.
https://towardsdatascience.com/python-webserver-with-flask-and-raspberry-pi-398423cc6f5d
14/6/20 Rebuilding System on another SD card. Connecting from Chrome on PC Via access point wireless, the response is very fast. So perhaps this is where I have to look for speeding up the system. When I have added the AP software to the R-Pi I'll connect the PC to it.
18/6/20 I think that word should be Ethernet, not wireless, But I will build a basic system (No AP) and try that via Router wireless.
Wireless to Tablet is the slow item, so is it the browser/software in the tablet. How to test that.
20/6/20 The RC-Car on uSD card 4 responds pretty quickly to the tablet.
Must check again card 7 and 10 for response times.
Ethernet to PC - very fast
Ethernet to tablet, nearly as fast - So that sort of says the Application on the Pi and the Wifi and Browser on the tablet are not holding it back.
Had a thought that it could be the AP software so searched for Hostapd causing slow action, and found hints that I should configure hostapd for wmm=1.
Now to test.
Humph. Wifi AP doesn't work at all. Not on house network or it's own.
from Dmesg:
18.436844] usb 1-1.2: Direct firmware load for zd1211/zd1211b_ub failed with error -2
[ 18.436875] usb 1-1.2: Could not load firmware file zd1211/zd1211b_ub. Error number -2
[ 18.436888] zd1211rw 1-1.2:1.0: couldn't load firmware. Error number -2
Difficult to resolve. Had to remove Hostapd, and update and then Upgrade SD card #7. One of the things that seems to have happened is that the zd1211 drivers seemed to have disappeared so I had to reload them. That is probably the error above. Have got it working again with external AP, now need to reinstall hostapd and start again.
Thursday, 30 April 2020
CTC DIY Printer Z-axis wobble repairs
First, an example of the wobble: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sz34dHOgt0r1nmJpUiQsRUgLw2h_Svmb
Now a solution suggested on Thingiverse, found from a youtube video:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2135784 I printed this, and it was necessary to file out the groove on it due to the effect of the Z-axis wobble. The side of the piece shows the effect of the wobble ( see picture)
This is the mechanism that has to be modified: [Picture 2]
and this shows where the piece fits, [picture 3]
with the metal piece screwed into the white piece and the rest of the mechanism resting on it.
How to do it.
1. Undo threaded bar from coupling and remove it.
2. Remove slider rod.
3. Undo metal threaded part.
4. find appropriate screws and mount this threaded part on to white piece.
5. Replace slider rod, and clip white piece in to it.
6 Replace threaded rod, through mechanism and through added piece.
7. Align x-axis mechanism for correct vertical positioning.
8 Test
9. If successful, repeat 1-8 on other side.
This works, much less wobble. Here is the final picture. As the rod wobbles so does the white piece, but the frame doesn't. I had to do both sides. One of the main difficulties was finding small screws that would go through the metal, screw into the plastic, but not protrudre into the dome of the white plastic where it would affect the sliding motion. It was necessary to reset the nozzle height afterwards.
All of this thanks to jpnurro the designer who put it on thingiverse.
I am quite pleased with the results, but will still work on how I can stop the threaded rod from wobbling, which is the cause of the problem.
11 May 2020
The problem seems to have got worse again, I don't know why, except that the Z-axis spindle does seem to wobble around a lot. I have tried putting shims into the coupler where I think I can centre the spindle, but that doesn't seem to help.
This morning I put the X-axis machinery up on trestles and have removed the Zaxis threaded spindle. The Coupler wobbles. THIS IS BAD NEWS.
In effect, back to square one. Does this mean that the axle of the stepper is bent? I have seen that mentioned in a YouTube video. Or is it that the stepper motor is mis-aligned? One of the screws bolting it on to the frame was looser than the others. No. The way that the axle turns indicates that this last is not the problem.
12 May 20202 Have replaced coupler with plastic tubing and wobble is so much reduced. No signs of wobble in the stepper motor axle.
Now a solution suggested on Thingiverse, found from a youtube video:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2135784 I printed this, and it was necessary to file out the groove on it due to the effect of the Z-axis wobble. The side of the piece shows the effect of the wobble ( see picture)
This is the mechanism that has to be modified: [Picture 2]
and this shows where the piece fits, [picture 3]
How to do it.
1. Undo threaded bar from coupling and remove it.
2. Remove slider rod.
3. Undo metal threaded part.
4. find appropriate screws and mount this threaded part on to white piece.
5. Replace slider rod, and clip white piece in to it.
6 Replace threaded rod, through mechanism and through added piece.
7. Align x-axis mechanism for correct vertical positioning.
8 Test
9. If successful, repeat 1-8 on other side.
This works, much less wobble. Here is the final picture. As the rod wobbles so does the white piece, but the frame doesn't. I had to do both sides. One of the main difficulties was finding small screws that would go through the metal, screw into the plastic, but not protrudre into the dome of the white plastic where it would affect the sliding motion. It was necessary to reset the nozzle height afterwards.
I am quite pleased with the results, but will still work on how I can stop the threaded rod from wobbling, which is the cause of the problem.
11 May 2020
The problem seems to have got worse again, I don't know why, except that the Z-axis spindle does seem to wobble around a lot. I have tried putting shims into the coupler where I think I can centre the spindle, but that doesn't seem to help.
This morning I put the X-axis machinery up on trestles and have removed the Zaxis threaded spindle. The Coupler wobbles. THIS IS BAD NEWS.
In effect, back to square one. Does this mean that the axle of the stepper is bent? I have seen that mentioned in a YouTube video. Or is it that the stepper motor is mis-aligned? One of the screws bolting it on to the frame was looser than the others. No. The way that the axle turns indicates that this last is not the problem.
12 May 20202 Have replaced coupler with plastic tubing and wobble is so much reduced. No signs of wobble in the stepper motor axle.
Monday, 20 April 2020
CTC DIY Printer improvements
This blog to document what I have done with the printer to try and improve it.
The current state is that I have been printing face masks and they are not very good because the sides are rippled.
I tried to adjust the baseplate height but on one side the adjustment screws were completely tight and on the other side almost completely undone. At this point I measured the height of the horizontal guide bar (X-axis) and discovered that it was 6mm higher at one end than at the other, so I adusted that by turning one z-axis screw until both sides were the same height from the base. I then adjusted the z-axis position of the nozzle so that it was with the plate about half-way done up on the adjustment screws. A business card worked well to get the nozzle-baseplate seperation correct.
One of the problems that I have not been able to resolve is that the threaded z-axis rods are not straight but have a bow in them. Each level of deposition of the print is 1/8th of a turn of this screw. I have removed and tried to straighten this rod, but have not been successful. The results are obvious in the picture below as you can see on the white knight . The black knight was the very first thing printed on the printer.
What can be noticed is that the ripple up the sides of the white knight is very close to the pitch of the thread of the rod. One implication could be that as the rod turns it moves the nozzle head from it's perfect position and gives a bit of an offset to each layer.
In the next picture you will see that at the top of the threaded rod where is is held by the top board I have added a bushing to hold the top of the z-rod more firmly. This means that the bowing of the rod will push against the other vertical guide rod and force the print head mechanism out of position. If I remove this bushing that I have added, then the bowed rod would have room for play in the top mounting, and hopefully will not affect the print.
Picture one - Closeup of Knights.
Picture 2 = Left hand frame showing guide rod and threaded z-rod (bowed) with blue bushing.
Removing the bushing sort of goes against good engineering practice, but if it allows the z-rod to flop around and not affect the print nozzle, it may have to be that way. There is also a bushing on the rod on the right side of the machine, but we will see if this sorts the problem to some degree.
The current state is that I have been printing face masks and they are not very good because the sides are rippled.
I tried to adjust the baseplate height but on one side the adjustment screws were completely tight and on the other side almost completely undone. At this point I measured the height of the horizontal guide bar (X-axis) and discovered that it was 6mm higher at one end than at the other, so I adusted that by turning one z-axis screw until both sides were the same height from the base. I then adjusted the z-axis position of the nozzle so that it was with the plate about half-way done up on the adjustment screws. A business card worked well to get the nozzle-baseplate seperation correct.
One of the problems that I have not been able to resolve is that the threaded z-axis rods are not straight but have a bow in them. Each level of deposition of the print is 1/8th of a turn of this screw. I have removed and tried to straighten this rod, but have not been successful. The results are obvious in the picture below as you can see on the white knight . The black knight was the very first thing printed on the printer.
In the next picture you will see that at the top of the threaded rod where is is held by the top board I have added a bushing to hold the top of the z-rod more firmly. This means that the bowing of the rod will push against the other vertical guide rod and force the print head mechanism out of position. If I remove this bushing that I have added, then the bowed rod would have room for play in the top mounting, and hopefully will not affect the print.
Picture one - Closeup of Knights.
Removing the bushing sort of goes against good engineering practice, but if it allows the z-rod to flop around and not affect the print nozzle, it may have to be that way. There is also a bushing on the rod on the right side of the machine, but we will see if this sorts the problem to some degree.
Saturday, 28 March 2020
Coronovirus lockdown- Second Week - Retrospective preparations
This that follows is an expansion on an email that I sent to friends in Canada where the situation has not yet got to the state that it is in Britian. I expect it to grow as I think of more things.
Monday 9 March Self - Isolation started
Friday 20 March Schools Closed
Monday 23 March Lockdown - Not allowed off property.
Belong to a Library and see what they have in ebooks, audiobooks and e-magazines
Monday 9 March Self - Isolation started
Friday 20 March Schools Closed
Monday 23 March Lockdown - Not allowed off property.
Belong to a Library and see what they have in ebooks, audiobooks and e-magazines
Tinned foods keeps well. It keeps even longer if you have a crap can opener.
Think about what decorating needs doing in the house and get in the paint, brushes, masking tape etc.
There are going to be a lot of long haired people around when this is over. Can you get some clippers so your partner can practice on you?
Time to dig for Victory and plant a garden? Get seeds and compost and plant feed and fertiliser.
Get yourself in shape for it: Glasses checked, teeth examined etc. I broke a tooth yesterday and have got a fixing kit so am going to do some home repairs.
Get a new computer while you can get it delivered.
Stock up on some powdered milk in case the real stuff is not available.
The instructions are to wash your hands for at least 20 seconds every time. My hands have got very dry and are cracking up, so I would suggest getting in some hand cream.
On the basis that you don't know what you will be able to get if you are locked in, here are some ideas:
Washing machine powder,
As I mentioned, with extreme handwashing my hands are cracking up, especially as I have to wash them after painting.
Maybe get some rubber gloves in. I use them all the time anyway.
I see that the social distancing of 2 Metres is not sufficient according to a Harvard or MIT study.
I should have got in more paintprushes, they don't last for long, especially when you are only doing a bit a day and cleaning them every time.
and - Household glue - I use a fair bit of contact cement and my tube is nearly empty. I won't be able to get any more because all the hardware stores are closed for the duration.
One more thought. My Linux User Group message board suggested that we sign up for folding@home So most of us have. Let your computer keep working while you are gardening/painting.
One more thought. My Linux User Group message board suggested that we sign up for folding@home So most of us have. Let your computer keep working while you are gardening/painting.
Also I was asked this morning how long a car could be left without use. The best advice seems to be to take it for a 10 mile run every two weeks just to charge the battery and make sure the tyres don't get any flat spots.
Tuesday, 24 March 2020
Lockdown - March 2020
24 March 2020: I have a note beside me that spells out the four steps of personal response to the Coronovirus pandemic.
1. Social Distancing
2. Social Isolation
3. House Arrest
4. Lockdown.
For the last week since we went to our coffee morning and only very few people were there, we have been practicing Social Isolation. It is very difficult to avoid touching something that someone else has touched, such as the food that Tesco delivers, and the post, and when Lian next door gave us some milk. When you read that the virus can exist for 72 hours (3 days) on hard plastic or metal, and for a few hours on cardboard and paper, you want to leave any post that is delivered until the evening to read.
For the past week we have been driving out and having our tea/coffee from a flask somewhere is the countryside, where we don't see anyone else. Now we are in lockdown and only allowed out of the property once a day for exercise. It will be interesting to see how that works. Ross next door started a new career yesterday with his coffee van. Dave (his father) said that he had spreadsheet out all the figures before he bought into it, but this lockdown is going to blow a big hole in that.
I made a schedule of painting for the woodwork around the house. This is the second day and it is already blown. I painted the downstairs bathroom yesterday instead of the upstairs one as per my schedule, and today I am putting it back together and preparing the stairs for tomorrows painting.
Friday and on Thursday I painted one side of the staircase. Masking tape still there. I need a new brush.
We'll see. I have a number of other tasks on a list that keeps on growing.
1. Social Distancing
2. Social Isolation
3. House Arrest
4. Lockdown.
For the last week since we went to our coffee morning and only very few people were there, we have been practicing Social Isolation. It is very difficult to avoid touching something that someone else has touched, such as the food that Tesco delivers, and the post, and when Lian next door gave us some milk. When you read that the virus can exist for 72 hours (3 days) on hard plastic or metal, and for a few hours on cardboard and paper, you want to leave any post that is delivered until the evening to read.
For the past week we have been driving out and having our tea/coffee from a flask somewhere is the countryside, where we don't see anyone else. Now we are in lockdown and only allowed out of the property once a day for exercise. It will be interesting to see how that works. Ross next door started a new career yesterday with his coffee van. Dave (his father) said that he had spreadsheet out all the figures before he bought into it, but this lockdown is going to blow a big hole in that.
I made a schedule of painting for the woodwork around the house. This is the second day and it is already blown. I painted the downstairs bathroom yesterday instead of the upstairs one as per my schedule, and today I am putting it back together and preparing the stairs for tomorrows painting.
Friday and on Thursday I painted one side of the staircase. Masking tape still there. I need a new brush.
We'll see. I have a number of other tasks on a list that keeps on growing.
Saturday, 1 February 2020
Raspberry Pi Ad-Hoc wireless configuration
If you want to use the Raspberry Pi wirelessly without having an access point, you have to configure the Pi as its own Access Point. This is how I did it with links to information at the end.
------------
Will your Wireless dongle work in this mode? Luckily the R-pi Zero W does, but my Aqprox dongles don't. This tells you how to find out, and also how to configure it. https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/software_access_point
------------
Most dongles will work directly with the R-Pi, but my Zyxel one doesn't any more under Raspbian Buster. It was necessary to sudo apt-get install firmware-zd1211.
2022-08-28 New R-Pi OS. Cannot find this package.
------------
Initial Wireless configuration [under Buster] to connect to my home network
in /etc/ the file dhcpcd.conf: my changes are in italics
# A sample configuration for dhcpcd.
# See dhcpcd.conf(5) for details.
# Allow users of this group to interact with dhcpcd via the control socket.
#controlgroup wheel
# Inform the DHCP server of our hostname for DDNS.
raspberry_pi
# Use the hardware address of the interface for the Client ID.
clientid
# or
# Use the same DUID + IAID as set in DHCPv6 for DHCPv4 ClientID as per RFC4361.
# Some non-RFC compliant DHCP servers do not reply with this set.
# In this case, comment out duid and enable clientid above.
#duid
# Persist interface configuration when dhcpcd exits.
persistent
# Rapid commit support.
# Safe to enable by default because it requires the equivalent option set
# on the server to actually work.
option rapid_commit
# A list of options to request from the DHCP server.
option domain_name_servers, domain_name, domain_search, host_name
option classless_static_routes
# Most distributions have NTP support.
option ntp_servers
# Respect the network MTU. This is applied to DHCP routes.
option interface_mtu
# A ServerID is required by RFC2131.
require dhcp_server_identifier
# Generate Stable Private IPv6 Addresses instead of hardware based ones
# slaac private
# Example static IP configuration:
interface eth0
static ip_address=192.168.1.9/27
static routers=192.168.1.1
static domain_name_servers=192.168.011 8.8.8.8
interface wlan0
static ip_address=192.168.1.8/27
static routers=192.168.1.1
static domain_name_servers=192.168.1.1 8.8.8.8
# It is possible to fall back to a static IP if DHCP fails:
# define static profile
#profile static_eth0
#static ip_address=192.168.1.23/24
#static routers=192.168.1.1
#static domain_name_servers=192.168.1.1
# fallback to static profile on eth0
#interface eth0
#fallback static_eth0
-- -- --
in /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf
ctrl_interface=DIR=/var/run/wpa_supplicant GROUP=netdev
update_config=1
country=GB
network={
ssid="bmth-upstairs"
psk="password"
# proto=RSN
key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
# pairwise=TKIP
# auth_alg=OPEN
}
----------
Preparing for Ad-hoc operation (taken from Robot-7-flask.doc page 5)
[connect via Ethernet or Wifi]
programs to load: Hostapd, dnsmasq
Edit dhcpcd.conf as described in the link above to assign a newIP address for the AP.
This bit then looks like:
Wpa_supplicant.conf now looks like this:
ctrl_interface=DIR=/var/run/wpa_supplicant GROUP=netdev
update_config=1
country=GB
network={
ssid="rc-car"
psk="Ashmeads"
key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
}
restart the dhcpcd daemon.
edit the dnsmasq file to set the dhcp ranges.
Continue following the instructions in the link to set up other parameters.
My file /etc/hostapd/hostapd.conf looks like this:
interface=wlan0
driver=nl80211
ssid=rc-car
hw_mode=g
channel=7
wmm_enabled=0
macaddr_acl=0
auth_algs=1
ignore_broadcast_ssid=0
wpa=2
wpa_passphrase=Ashmeads
wpa_key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
wpa_pairwise=TKIP
rsn_pairwise=CCMP
----------
Use Wifi analyser and fing on a tablet to see if the SSID Rc-car is present.
----------
This is a part that was omitted from the Raspberry Pi documentation :
https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/software_access_point
------------
Will your Wireless dongle work in this mode? Luckily the R-pi Zero W does, but my Aqprox dongles don't. This tells you how to find out, and also how to configure it. https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/software_access_point
------------
Most dongles will work directly with the R-Pi, but my Zyxel one doesn't any more under Raspbian Buster. It was necessary to sudo apt-get install firmware-zd1211.
2022-08-28 New R-Pi OS. Cannot find this package.
------------
Initial Wireless configuration [under Buster] to connect to my home network
in /etc/ the file dhcpcd.conf: my changes are in italics
# A sample configuration for dhcpcd.
# See dhcpcd.conf(5) for details.
# Allow users of this group to interact with dhcpcd via the control socket.
#controlgroup wheel
# Inform the DHCP server of our hostname for DDNS.
raspberry_pi
# Use the hardware address of the interface for the Client ID.
clientid
# or
# Use the same DUID + IAID as set in DHCPv6 for DHCPv4 ClientID as per RFC4361.
# Some non-RFC compliant DHCP servers do not reply with this set.
# In this case, comment out duid and enable clientid above.
#duid
# Persist interface configuration when dhcpcd exits.
persistent
# Rapid commit support.
# Safe to enable by default because it requires the equivalent option set
# on the server to actually work.
option rapid_commit
# A list of options to request from the DHCP server.
option domain_name_servers, domain_name, domain_search, host_name
option classless_static_routes
# Most distributions have NTP support.
option ntp_servers
# Respect the network MTU. This is applied to DHCP routes.
option interface_mtu
# A ServerID is required by RFC2131.
require dhcp_server_identifier
# Generate Stable Private IPv6 Addresses instead of hardware based ones
# slaac private
# Example static IP configuration:
interface eth0
static ip_address=192.168.1.9/27
static routers=192.168.1.1
static domain_name_servers=192.168.011 8.8.8.8
interface wlan0
static ip_address=192.168.1.8/27
static routers=192.168.1.1
static domain_name_servers=192.168.1.1 8.8.8.8
# It is possible to fall back to a static IP if DHCP fails:
# define static profile
#profile static_eth0
#static ip_address=192.168.1.23/24
#static routers=192.168.1.1
#static domain_name_servers=192.168.1.1
# fallback to static profile on eth0
#interface eth0
#fallback static_eth0
-- -- --
in /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf
ctrl_interface=DIR=/var/run/wpa_supplicant GROUP=netdev
update_config=1
country=GB
network={
ssid="bmth-upstairs"
psk="password"
# proto=RSN
key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
# pairwise=TKIP
# auth_alg=OPEN
}
----------
Preparing for Ad-hoc operation (taken from Robot-7-flask.doc page 5)
[connect via Ethernet or Wifi]
programs to load: Hostapd, dnsmasq
https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/wireless/access-point.md
- no longer valid July 2020 Use:
https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/wireless/access-point-routed.md
- no longer valid July 2020 Use:
https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/wireless/access-point-routed.md
sudo apt-get install dnsmasq hostapd
stopped dnsmasq and hostapd, and rebooted.
sudo systemctl stop dnsmasq
sudo systemctl stop hostapdEdit dhcpcd.conf as described in the link above to assign a newIP address for the AP.
This bit then looks like:
interface wlan0
static ip_address=192.168.4.1/24
nohook wpa_supplicantWpa_supplicant.conf now looks like this:
ctrl_interface=DIR=/var/run/wpa_supplicant GROUP=netdev
update_config=1
country=GB
network={
ssid="rc-car"
psk="Ashmeads"
key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
}
restart the dhcpcd daemon.
edit the dnsmasq file to set the dhcp ranges.
Continue following the instructions in the link to set up other parameters.
My file /etc/hostapd/hostapd.conf looks like this:
interface=wlan0
driver=nl80211
ssid=rc-car
hw_mode=g
channel=7
wmm_enabled=0
macaddr_acl=0
auth_algs=1
ignore_broadcast_ssid=0
wpa=2
wpa_passphrase=Ashmeads
wpa_key_mgmt=WPA-PSK
wpa_pairwise=TKIP
rsn_pairwise=CCMP
----------
Use Wifi analyser and fing on a tablet to see if the SSID Rc-car is present.
----------
This is a part that was omitted from the Raspberry Pi documentation :
We still have to show the system the location of the configuration file:
sudo nano /etc/default/hostapd
In this file, track down the line that says #DAEMON_CONF=”” – delete that # and put the path to our config file in the quotes, so that it looks like this:
DAEMON_CONF="/etc/hostapd/hostapd.conf"
I got this from https://thepi.io/how-to-use-your-raspberry-pi-as-a-wireless-access-point/And don't forget to edit rc.local to change the IP address used by Flask.LINKS
https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/software_access_point
To set up Access Point:
https://www.raspberrypi.org/documentation/configuration/wireless/access-point.md
Better:
https://thepi.io/how-to-use-your-raspberry-pi-as-a-wireless-access-point/
Better:
https://thepi.io/how-to-use-your-raspberry-pi-as-a-wireless-access-point/
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